Thursday, June 16, 2016

Fortress of Louisbourg and Beggar's Dinner

We spent much of the day at the Fortress of Louisbourg . Do you know the difference between a fort and a fortress? A fortress encloses an entire town while a fort does not. The fortress is 55 acres and the perimeter was 2.5 miles. It housed about 3000 people! 

We entered the area and a solder talked with us in the Desroches House. We were in an English speaking group.

Desroches House
Then we headed toward the drawbridge to enter the fortress. A soldier stopped us and asked our business. I took his picture and he singled me out. He made me come forward and face the people. He wanted to know if I was there to see the Governor; I said that I was. Then he asked me who all of the people were; I said my family. He let us in so those must have been the right answers!
I thought I was in trouble!
Drawbridge and Dauphin Gate
We enjoyed a guided tour and learned so much from our guide, Hilda, who grew up in the area. It was a cloudy day and the wind never stopped. I had on many layers and managed to stay somewhat warm.

After the tour, we had lunch at the Hôtel de la Marine. Ray had fish soup with bread while I had vegetable soup with bread. It was good and hot.  We wore bibs as they did in the 1700s.

We walked out to the point. From the point, one could easily see the lighthouse that we visited yesterday; it was the first lighthouse in Canada. Looking back at the fortress was interesting. Everything has not been restored but the parts that have been are incredible.

We headed to the King's Bastion and saw the brigade, the Military Chapel, the King's Bastion Barracks, and the Governor's Apartments. There were many canons all around.


Bedroom in Governor's apartments

After being in a number of buildings and walking most of the streets, we stopped at L’Épée Royale Café for cookies. We each had a molasses cookie and sugar cookie. The clerk offered us butter for the molasses cookies. We had never heard of putting butter on molasses cookies and the clerk had never heard of not using butter! Both kinds of cookies were good; the molasses were more biscuit or muffin like. I bet they'd be good with butter.
We headed down the Quay and through a grassy area so Ray could take some pictures of some canons. At the corner, we entered the King's Bakery where they made the soldier's bread. They heated an oven with a wood fire then removed the entire fire, completely cleaned and wiped down the bricks. After cornmeal was put in the bottom of the oven, the bread dough is added and the door is closed while it bakes. We bought two very small loaves - one is wheat and rye; one is white and whole wheat. We haven't tried them - they are both very hard but we are told they are soft on the inside.

A few more pictures:
The ice house

Entrance from the sea, the Frederic Gate
On our way to out, we went to the Dauphin Demi-Bastion. We saw the Powder Magazin that's the correct spelling and the Postern Tunnel. There were many cannons also.
Postern Tunnel

Barracks, Powder Magazin 
This evening, we attended a Beggar's Dinner at the place we are staying. We were dressed in period costume.

We enjoyed some 1800s music and good food.

There was the Tavern Owner who was hunting for a man.

She was checking out the men's legs - men with developed calf muscles are richer. Rich people danced the minuet and developed calf muscles. She thought Ray might be a good catch!

However, he left with me! And we enjoyed a beautiful sunset on our way home on our last evening in Nova Scotia.

Tomorrow we begin the journeying westward towards home. 


  1. I think that the blustery clouds added much to the 'period' appearance of the location. So much to see and it sounds like you took in a lot!!!!! Interesting about the butter w/ the molasses cookie/biscuit!!!!

  2. Looks like you had an amazing day! I love that you went to the dinner and were dressed in period costumes. Awesome!

  3. Glad you could keep your man;) Looks like a great place. The governor's bed is lovely.

  4. Wow, what fun! I'm glad Ray was able to resist those temptresses' wiles! Ha!



Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...